Jun. 29, 2025 at 11:21 am

A.P.C. Jeans Introduced My Generation to Selvedge. Are They Still Good?

A.P.C. Jeans Introduced My Generation to Selvedge. Are They Still Good?

15views

Nothing proves that time is a flat circle more than the resurrection of A.P.C. jeans. The Parisian label had a chokehold on guys (myself included) in the early 2010s—it was basically the gateway drug to selvedge denim. I still remember grabbing a pair of slim-fit Petit Standards for around $185 back in 2013, which was the most I’d ever spent on jeans. The rigidness was a shock to my pre-washed-denim-softened legs—these things could practically stand on their own.

What pulled me in? The insane images I'd see on menswear forums of fades, roping, and whiskering—the denim equivalent of watching Michael Jordan highlights from the Bulls era. And let’s not forget the wild time when dudes were throwing sand on their jeans and then sprinting into the ocean (per A.P.C.’s official suggestion) to “maximize” fades, which is truly unhinged behavior.

A.P.C. denim is coming back, but that doesn’t mean you have to bring back the skinny fit. Bump up the leg width a little and go for the New Standard model. A.P.C. calls them a straight fit, but realistically, they’re more slim-straight. The brand’s aesthetic is still a minimalist’s dream: 100% cotton, no loud branding, no pocket arcuates, no zip-fly—clean, quiet denim that minds its business. I grabbed a 31" waist since they stretch and shrink back after washing, and had them hemmed from the original 34" inseam down to 32". I was trying to avoid repeating a disaster from my earlier days when I hemmed a Petit Standard to 30” only for them to shrink and sadly turn into capris.

Despite the nostalgic joy, I’ve still got a few gripes after my A.P.C. hiatus. I wish the mid-rise were a true high-rise. It feels a little tight—but that could just be my body adjusting after years of swimming in baggy pants. I also wondered why the pockets were still so shallow. With all these supersized iPhones, you’d think A.P.C. would’ve committed to at least one innovation: larger pockets.

I’m still excited to earn my fades over the next year, and I’ve put together three fits to prove that A.P.C.’s New Standards really are the standard. Do I also hear the faint, gold-numbered footsteps of Common Projects returning to the scene, as well? Time is a flat circle, indeed.

Outfit 1: A Denim Nerd’s Day Out (and In)

For a brand known as one of the best denim purveyors on the planet, A.P.C.’s versatility really shows. These jeans swing like a metronome, from casual to dressed-up without missing a beat. I went with an overshirt–wool-blazer mashup and tossed a waffle-knit thermal underneath.

Naturally, I flipped the cuff to show off the selvedge (pro tip: do not attempt this flex if your jeans are pre-washed unless you want denim people to give you that look). They sit perfectly on top of my all-black leather Clarks Treks. This is a fit that can take me anywhere—from an early-bird matinee to being locked in my room for hours, banging out stories about jeans like the indigo-obsessed gremlin I am.

Kestin

Stac Wool Mix Blazer

$325

Huckberry

Gap

Waffle Crew T-Shirt

$40

Gap

A.P.C.

New Standard Dry Selvedge Denim Jeans

$295

Mr.Porter

Clark's

Desert Trek

$150

Clark's

Outfit 2: The Coffee-Date-to-Dinner-Reservation Uniform

The 2013 version of myself would be proud of this fit—partly because I’m still loyal to the same denim brand, and partly because this is what a decade of unwavering commitment to menswear staples looks like. A shaggy alpaca sweater layered over an Oxford shirt feels like cozy academic cosplay. And while I don’t see double-monks storming back into the zeitgeist anytime soon, a pair of single-monks will always hold the line.

The whole thing leans pretty hard into preppy territory—and it’s the kind of outfit I’d wear straight from a coffee date to a reservation I definitely made 10 minutes before.

Buck Mason

Shaggy Alpaca Saddle Crew

$268

Buck Mason

Gitman Vintage

Classic Cambridge Oxford Shirt

$235

Huckberry

Viberg

Regent Single Monk Shoes

$975

Viberg

Drake's

Lambswool Ribbed Knit Cap

$85

Drake's

Outfit 3: A Rogue Dad on the Trails

Sounds wild, but the best way to earn those fades is to get outside and touch some grass, right? Throw on a fleece, long-sleeve tee, and have fun trekking. Since I’m rocking a hiking shoe, I forgo the cuff and let the denim stack—just like the hills I claim I’ll be climbing. This is my working man’s interpretation of what Ralph would wear, and I’d happily sport this to the local farmers’ market or my son’s early-morning soccer games.